New Cuyama is the Central Coast’s true “Wild West” in spirit. Unassumingly tucked away along Santa Barbara County’s far eastern edge, the under-the-radar, sparsely populated high desert community saddles the rugged, undiscovered borders of Santa Barbara, Kern, San Luis Obispo and Ventura Counties. Known as the “Hidden Valley of Enchantment,” the Cuyama Valley is ensconced by the dramatic Sierra Madre Mountains and the La Panza and Caliente Mountain Ranges. This unique crossroads and distinctive geography create a strangely unfamiliar sense of place ripe for exploration.
More than 5,000 vehicles drive along the historic east-west running Route 166 daily, zipping by the town of 500 people, where the Cuyama Buckhorn has served as a road stop since the 1950s. Back then, oil tycoons flew in to monitor their fields and vacationers hopped between the Mid-Century Modern Buckhorn Motel and the Pine Mountain Club, which were created by the same owners.
The Buckhorn has lived several lives in the subsequent decades. One of the lone services along the remote roadway, its greasy spoon restaurant has long captured day-trippers in search of wildflowers in the nearby Carrizo Plain, bikers enjoying the blissfully open roads, and travelers en route to Bakersfield, Ojai, or San Luis Obispo stopping for fuel and refreshments.
Thanks to the visionary, artistic eye of new owners, Jeff Vance and Ferial Sadeghian (the couple behind Los Angeles-based design and architecture firm, iDGroup), the Cuyama Buckhorn is giving us Central Coasters a reason to make it more than just a road stop. After two-years of extensive renovations, the 21-room hotel has become a destination in its own right. I found the vibe to be very Marfa, Texas meets vintage L’Horizon Palm Springs. It’s cool, timeless, and just the right amount of country. Even better yet, this undiscovered gem is easily accessible and right in our backyard.
After passing through the wood paneled lobby decorated with cowhides and taxidermy and well stocked with classic boardgames and books, hotel guests are ushered into a high desert oasis. The Buckhorn’s guestrooms surround an expansive courtyard accented by a bocce ball court, pool table, fire pits, and a lawn that gets transformed into an outdoor cinema in warmer seasons. Each room has a private entrance and patio, and strategically placed fountains create a soothing soundtrack.
My late February visit coincided with the opening of the Buckhorn’s glorious, brand new swimming pool, hot tub, and sauna. On weekend evenings, hotel guests can take advantage of poolside bar service to enjoy happy hour while watching the sun sink behind the mountains to the west. Currently, beer, wine, and pre-mixed batched cocktails are on the all-day libations menu, which can also be enjoyed on the restaurant’s outdoor garden patio.
The resort’s commitment to the community really shines through the food and beverage program, between the hyper-local in-room mini-bar and the purveyors and farmers that supply the Buck Stop Coffee Shop and The Buckhorn Restaurant & Bar, which has been elevated alongside the hotel. You’ll spot names like Santa Barbara Pistachios, Rock Front Ranch Honey, SZ Ranch eggs, and Santa Barbara Cheddar on the menus. The market and restaurant are open to the public from 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. daily, dinner service is offered on weekends, and guests can pre-order breakfast boxes, too.
With so much sustenance at your fingertips, you can easily opt to lounge on property throughout your stay. Or, as I did, use the Buckhorn as a gateway explore the community, which has a lot to offer between the hiking, sustainable agriculture, winemaking, and stargazing. With minimal light pollution, New Cuyama is one of the best places on the Central Coast to see stars at night. To get the best vantage of the Milky Way, the hotel staff steered me to the landing strip at the nearby Blue Sky Center, a short 10 minute walk up the road.
The next morning, I took an invigorating walk a few miles up that same country road in the light of day, admiring the many horses, cows, and birds I encountered and soaking up the relative silence. My afternoon agenda was a private winetasting at Condor’s Hope Ranch arranged by the hotel on my behalf—the winery is open by appointment only so it’s best to plan a visit in advance, either through the hotel or directly with the winery.
After a scenic drive about 30 minutes from the Buckhorn, I arrived at Condor’s Hope where the owners/farmers/winemakers/retired professors Steve Gliessman and Robbie Jaffe educated me on their organic dry farming process and led me through an informative and delicious tasting of their wines and olive oils. The Valley has a significant water shortage issue, so it was fascinating to learn how they’ve been able to work with the land and Mother Nature to produce such lovely natural wines even during drought years. I was so charmed by their smarts, passion, and the place, I joined their wine club so I’d have a reason to return sooner than later.
Back at the Buckhorn, I settled in for another quiet evening on property. After sipping a cocktail while watching the sunset show and chatting with the bartender and fellow guests, I relocated to a fire pit to warm up for a spell. I’d spent a lot of time outside on the cool, windy winter’s day, so ordered dinner (veggie tacos and Caesar salad) from the restaurant to enjoy in my cozy room while streaming Nomadland, which felt like a fitting pairing….lots of open roads and interesting characters, which New Cuyama offers in abundance.
