The waters of Maine yield some of the nation’s best seafood, and the bustling maritime hub of Portland is the epicenter of the state’s culinary scene. I spent four delicious summer days eating my way through the harbor town, devouring pristine oysters, tender chunks of lobster meat, fresh seasonal crab, Maine mussels and more inspired fare. It was pescatarian heaven and these hotspots lived up to their hype:
Scales
I started my daily dozen oyster quest at Scales, a popular restaurant in the Old Port waterfront district. I arrived promptly at 4pm when the restaurant opened to score one of the walk-in tables in the lounge area. I sipped a dirty vodka martini as I waited for my oysters, a mix of the day’s selection, all sourced from Maine: Blackstone Points from Damariscotta, Petit Manans from Steuben and Sandy Points from nearby Chebeague Island in Casco Bay.
Street & Co.
Fortified by my first tastes of Maine oysters, I walked over to one of Scales’ sister restaurants, Street & Co., where I had secured a dinner reservation weeks ahead based on the popularity. Tucked on a brick lane, the cozy restaurant oozes historic atmosphere. Here, I enjoyed fine dining service and crisp white wine paired with a Caesar salad and a satisfying halibut dish featuring smoked summer corn and seared shiitake mushrooms. There was no room for dessert!
The Shop
Late the next morning, I laced up my walking shoes for a one-mile trek to Washington Avenue, where I had my sights set on The Shop, Island Creek Oysters’ raw bar and shellfish market. I placed my order at the counter and grabbed an outside picnic table well-shaded by an umbrella. I got two of each of their fresh Maine oyster selection—Getchell’s Ledge, Winnegance, Foster Point and Eider Cove all from the New Meadows River, as well as Abigail Pearl from Scarborough and Snow Island from Harpswell. As per usual, I went for the mignonette and horseradish to garnish. And I rounded out my lunch with a rainbow trout whipped feta spread served with crudites and chunks of bread.
The Honey Paw
Dinner that evening was The Honey Paw, a Southeast Asian restaurant, where I was able to get a walk-in seat at the bar. Based on my server’s recommendation, I got the delicate halibut crudo to start and Lobster Tom Yum for my main. Both were absolutely divine, and the latter featured Bang Island mussels and lobster pieces soaked in a bright lime leaf-infused broth. Yum, indeed!
Eventide Oyster Co.
I got a look at how popular my next day’s lunch destination Eventide Oyster Co. was while eating at neighboring The Honey Paw. In fact, every time I walked by this casual Middle Street seafood restaurant, there was a line of people waiting outside to grab one of the highly covetable tables, be it lunch or dinner. As a party of one, I was offered a standing spot perched right in front of the oyster bar. Yes, please! I started with a Dirty Dirty Martini, lured by the advertised oyster brine addition. It was so satisfying and icy cold, I would end up ordering a second, which is a bit aggressive for lunch, but when in Portland, ME…! My perfectly shucked oyster order featured a mix of Arcadian Petites from Damariscotta, Eros from Georgetown and Chebeague Islands from Casco Bay. I complemented that brininess with the not-so-simple Greens tossed with a heavenly nori vinaigrette (the umami, oh my!) and topped with pickled veggies. The second martini called for a Maine Crab Bun, which was just the right amount of light and rich thanks to the yuzu kosho mayo and squeeze of lime.
Leeward
Before leaving Eventide, I picked my server’s brain to find out where she likes to dine locally. That led me to a memorable dinner at Leeward, which was very close to my arts district Airbnb on Spring and Park Streets. I didn’t have a reservation so went just around the 5pm opening to get one of the last remaining bar seats. I started with a glass of Lambrusco Rosato, which made for a lovely pairing with my duo of starters—Maine Bluefin crudo and fried squash blossoms. Keeping the sea theme going, I had the phenomenal spaghettini nero for my main course, which featured squid, serrano chile, pork brodo, white wine and breadcrumbs. Sadly, I got quite full so couldn’t clean my plate, but I had zero regrets about my overordering! I loved every morsel and was grateful for the good recommendation that brought me there.
The East Ender
The East Ender was another locals’ recommendation for well-shucked oysters. Once I checked out the menu online and saw the deep-fried deviled eggs on the menu, I was fully on board. I walked over for a casual lunch after a morning cruising Casco Bay on the mailboat run. I ordered a dozen oysters, the deviled eggs and rock potatoes for good measure. The oysters were indeed very clean, and I particularly enjoyed the bright pink mignonette which must have had a hint of beet juice to achieve that hue.
Fore Street
My final Portland feast brought me to Fore Street, the one restaurant I had been to on my previous brief visit to Portland. I didn’t have a reservation so took advantage of the lounge seating option, where I could order from an abbreviated menu. Having already had my daily dozen oysters, I opted for a summer salad with arugula, corn and blueberries and the sizable portion of “Wood Oven Roasted Maine Rope-Cultured Mussels.” My server ensured I had plenty of bread to sop up the fragrant, savory garlic almond butter broth. And the cherry on top of this last supper was great conversation enjoyed with the interesting older gentleman seated across from me. I learned more about life in Maine from my fellow martini fan, and got to gush about how much I loved Portland’s dining scene and the superior quality of oysters.
If you’re looking for a sweet spot to stay in Portland, I had a very positive experience at this Airbnb located just steps away from the Portland Art Museum. Formerly a traditional bed and breakfast, the historic building has four units for Airbnb guests who can come and go using a keypad entry system. I stayed in room 4 on the top floor.
