West Marin County is an easy day trip from San Francisco and offers a complete change of pace thanks to its rural, coastal setting. Think roadside waterfront oyster outposts, dairy farms and artisan cheese producers, eclectic tiny towns, isolated hiking trails and bohemian country inns. Staying overnight is even better than day-tripping so you can really slow down and luxuriate in the region’s charms.
STAY in Olema, centrally located with easy access to Point Reyes Station and Marshall. Bear Valley Inn’s recently renovated Hummingbird Cottage is a standalone house that comfortably sleeps four people and offers more privacy for a couple. The Cottage comes stocked with house made yogurt and granola, fresh fruit and locally sourced cream and milk for your morning coffee. The back deck overlooks the organic garden and a partially shaded picnic table calls for dining or snacking alfresco. Fair warning: the free range hens embrace their freedom and will not be shy about trying to share your food!
EAT at Sir and Star, just yards away from the Bear Valley Inn in a historic 1876 building that survived the 1906 earthquake. This quirky, hyper-local destination restaurant is open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday evenings and serves food and wine sourced exclusively from Marin County (champagne being the only exception). The Marshall Store and Hog Island Oysters are both excellent options along PCH for feasting on the freshest, tastiest oysters harvested from local waters. The Marshall Store offers more menu variety for those who don’t do oysters and is open every day but Tuesdays. Hog Island’s Marshall oyster farm is open daily for picnics and you-shuck while The Boat Oyster Bar serving raw and barbecued oysters is only open Fridays through Mondays; reservations highly recommended.
SHOP and stock up on picnic provisions in Point Reyes Station. Taste and purchase Cowgirl Creamery cheeses at Tomales Bay Foods, home of their original creamery and where you can drool over the Red Hawk aging on the racks. Pick up artisanal breads at Palace Market, which also has an excellent wine selection and everything else you’d want from a local organic grocery store. Toby’s Feed Barn is a general store that offers tasty gourmet treats like nuts, dried fruits and sweets in addition to a wide selection of regional gifts and souvenirs (such as the West Marin Trees bath salts I resupply myself with every visit). Don’t leave town without a good browse through dreamy Point Reyes Books, where it’s impossible to leave without a book or magazine in hand.
There’s plenty more to DO in West Marin depending on how much time you have. Hike the Point Reyes National Seashore from one of the many trailheads. Explore Stinson Beach, Bolinas, Inverness and Tomales. Delve deeper into the culinary scene on a guided tour with West Marin Food & Farm Tours led by the gracious and knowledgeable Elizabeth Hill.
