Very Vancouver

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Canada Day lent some pomp and circumstance to my first ever Vancouver visit, and quite likely amplified the warm, welcoming atmosphere of this verdant, strikingly beautiful Pacific Northwestern coastal city. But I have a feeling it’s always a very friendly place given the consistency of positive human interactions I experienced throughout my three-day, three-night Vancouver immersion. In addition to being a city of really nice people at every turn, I found Vancouver to be a perfectly relaxed urban destination that excels at all things food related. The culinary riches are balanced by the abundant opportunities to be outside soaking up the natural beauty and getting into adventures. This makes for a guilt-free vacation equation:  indulge, work it off, make room for the next meal and repeat!

STAY in Yaletown, a centrally located, lively neighborhood packed with bars and restaurants that makes a convenient home base. The OPUS Vancouver is a reasonably priced, highly rated boutique property in Yaletown that is excellent value for the rate, particularly if you take advantage of the complimentary perks like bicycles, glasses of Prosecco at check in and the house car service. The attentive staff is quick to share personalized recommendations for things to do, where to eat and how to get where you’re going. For a more refined and luxurious atmosphere, the Shangri-La Hotel downtown is easy walking distance to Coal Harbour and the upscale shopping district on Robson Street. The high rise hotel is one of the few in Vancouver with an outdoor swimming pool though, fair warning, it’s small with only a handful of loungers on deck. The spacious, airy rooms are peacefully Zen and the decadent bathrooms feature deep soaking tubs, making the Shangri-La an ideal spot for recharging between sightseeing activities and feasting on the local cuisine.

Vancouver’s dynamic FOOD & DRINK scene lives up to its reputation and then some. Located steps away from OPUS, Rodney’s Oyster House serves quality seafood including (naturally!) incredibly fresh raw oysters on the half shell from the Pacific Northwest and the East Coast of Canada. In Chinatown, The Keefer Bar is a dark, sexy spot for an interesting pre-dinner cocktail (try the Bloody Ming) while waiting for a table to free up at Bao Bei, a buzzing, cozy contemporary Chinese Brasserie a few doors down. Gin & Tonic lovers are spoilt for choice at Juniper, a bright restaurant and bar on that same Chinatown block. All of the locals rave about Chambar, a spacious Belgian restaurant where the Moules Frites are a must. Café Medina in the Library District is the true brunch star of Vancouver, as evidenced by the long line of patrons waiting for a table well before opening. Patience is decadently rewarded here—every meal should include a waffle course! One can’t talk about brunch in Vancouver without acknowledging the Caesar, Canada’s signature twist on the Bloody Mary that’s made with Clamato instead of tomato juice and has a more refreshing, lighter flavor. Edible Canada’s Bistro on Granville Island concocts a flawless iteration of the Caesar and is a top pick for brunch or lunch on the island with plentiful outdoor seating.

There are so many ways to enjoy the GREAT OUTDOORS in Vancouver, which doesn’t feel overly urban given it’s surrounded by water and lush, tree-covered mountains. Stanley Park is the go-to spot for walking, running, biking and getting out on the water for stand up paddle boarding and kayaking. The park’s bike path is well signed and in most parts separate from the footpath as it loops around the seawall—the full loop takes a little over one hour to ride around with stops for photo ops. Ferries and water taxis are easily accessible from different points in the city and offer a photogenic and inexpensive way to be on the water with minimal effort or time commitment. The ferry ride to Granville Island from Yaletown only takes 10 minutes and feels like a mini-adventure. If you have more time to explore, Grouse Mountain is just 15 minutes outside of the city and equally popular for the grueling hike up (referred to as the “Grouse Grind”) as the easier route to the top, taking the Skyride tram. You could spend an entire day on the mountain if you're after more than a photo op—choose from activities like helicopter tours, ziplining, paragliding, ranger talks and nature walks.

For SHOPPING, Gastown is a pedestrian friendly historic district lined with independent boutiques, chain stores, souvenir shops and eateries. Cool women’s clothing and accessories can be found Oak+Fort and One of a Few located towards the top of Water Street, which is a great starting point for a wander around this neighborhood. A few other shopping areas: Robson Street is the Rodeo Drive of Vancouver; South Granville is all about antiques and art; and Main Street is known for its independent, artsy vibe and comes highly recommended by seasoned treasure hunters.

GETTING AROUND in a city without Uber means taxis are essential. Hotels and restaurants will call them for you, as you can't always rely upon the good old-fashioned tactic of flagging one down. If you are coming from Seattle, the Amtrak Cascades train is a very pleasant traveling experience along the coast that takes approximately four hours each way. However you enter Canada, don’t forget your passport!