Given Maine’s coastline is technically larger than that of California’s, four nights and five days road tripping down east barely allows you to scratch the surface—as I discovered on a recent visit. Vacationland’s craggy shoreline is made up of beaches, bays, peninsulas and inlets and a network of more than 4,600 islands, so the opportunities to be on the water are indeed endless. The landscape of forests and farmlands is lush and green. The charming and hospitable small towns exude that classic New England vibe and serve up fresh-as-it-gets seafood. Hello, lobster rolls and oysters!
BAR HARBOR
My journey began in Bar Harbor, adjacent to Acadia National Park on Mount Desert Island. The bustling seaside hamlet—where the likes of the Vanderbilts and Rockefellers used to summer back in the day—is easily walkable and well signed for exploring without an agenda. I stayed at the West Street Hotel on the main waterfront drag overlooking the marina where sightseeing excursions disembark. My balcony was a prime perch for catching the sunrise and sunset and watching the lobster boats go in and out.
The must-do in Bar Habor is walking the sandbar to Bar Island. It becomes accessible for few hours every day at low tide, so you have to time it right to fit in a hike to the island's view point.
I also enjoyed the shore path that starts in front of the grand Bar Harbor Inn & Spa and meanders for about a half mile along a picturesque stretch with elegant homes on one side and rocky beaches on the other. The massive “Balance Rock” boulder, a relic from the Ice Age, calls for a photo op.
When it came to food, I tried a lobster roll at Side Street Café, sat down for an old school seafood feast at Galyn’s and devoured a perfect breakfast sandwich at Morning Glory Bakery—where I also picked up a freshly baked blueberry pie to-go and some locally roasted coffee beans.
PORTLAND
The next stop was Portland, which is a proper city, and a very cool one at that. Equal parts traditional New England, gritty port town and creative cultural hub, I was delighted by its eclectic mix and genuine spirit. I made it to town just in time for a reservation (booked one month in advance!) at popular Fore Street, which I found delicious and deserving of its hype.
A post dinner walk around the working harbor and cobblestone streets of the Old Port district reminded me how Portland earned its name. The next morning, I made my way down Congress Street to the very hospitable Hot Suppa’ for a Southern-inflected breakfast of eggs Benedict with fried green tomatoes, grits and kale. 100% yum.
I visited the intimate and impressive Portland Museum of Art for an air-conditioned break from the humidity. I thoroughly enjoyed their collection of regional and global art works—and was especially mesmerized by The Dead Pearl Diver by Benjamin Paul Akers. The sculpture was the museum’s first acquisition in 1888, which makes it even more devastatingly beautiful.
I had the good fortune of stumbling upon a shop called More & Co. They had the cutest t’s and sweatshirts—souvenirs I’d actually want to wear. In fact, I got the softest “Imagine Maine” sweatshirt. Both an online and bricks-and-mortar retail store, More & Co. also carries a cool assortment of handcrafted, artisanal housewares, accessories and art.
KENNEBUNKPORT
My last stop was easy-going Kennebunkport, where I stayed at the Yachtsman Hotel & Marina Club. I loved my accommodations at the cheerful hotel, where every room has its own patio opening to unobstructed views of the Kennebunkport Marina.
I took full advantage of their complimentary bikes to cruise around town and to the beaches on both the Kennebunkport and Kennebunk sides. Another excellent Yachtsman perk was the complimentary shuttle service connecting all nine of their hotel collection’s properties. I used it to get to a memorable dinner at the dreamy Earth at Hidden Pond. I also sampled the seafood and took in the marina views at The Boathouse.
On my last morning, I took a drive out to Cape Porpoise Kitchen for a killer counter service breakfast sandwich and mean cup of coffee. I stopped in at Farm + Table down the street to browse their New England-inspired kitchen goods. I am now in possession of a whale shaped cutting board and a pair of farmhouse coffee mugs made in Vermont. What can I say? I like to bring the vacation vibes home with me.
And I’m already plotting my return next summer so I can linger longer and discover more of Maine’s heavenly delights.
