New Orleans is unlike any other city in America. The history, the music, the culture, the food, the booze, the Mississippi, the cemeteries, the architecture, the streetcars…New Orleans is a sultry, soulful place with serious strength of character. It’s the contagious energy and friendly hospitality of the people that really makes New Orleans stand out. I can’t think of another place in the U.S. where the locals have such a pronounced and consistently high level of passion for where they live. Whether born and raised there or deliberately transplanted, all of the Uber drivers, bartenders, shopkeepers, bellmen, writers and strangers I encountered on a recent visit talked about their city with such great reverence and affection. Those who were raised in New Orleans and had moved away, be it for college or Katrina, said they simply couldn’t stay away. The transplants who followed the sirens' song there were completely enamored with their adopted hometown and couldn’t imagine living anywhere else. I think it’s safe to say tourists agree with New Orleans’ addictive quality—this was my fourth visit and I’ll no doubt be back for another fix sooner than later.
STAY at The Ace New Orleans, which opened in spring 2016 in the Warehouse District adjacent to the CBD. This is now officially my favorite Ace property of the handful I’ve been to—probably because it’s New Orleans but also because it’s a killer, well-designed hotel with sumptuous public spaces and easy-going yet 100% attentive service. I was smitten with my residential-feeling, sunlit corner room and all its carefully thought out details, from the radio tuned to the local jazz station and the mini-bar made for mixologists to the large soaking tub and super long leather sofa for lounging.
LISTEN to traditional acoustic jazz at the intimate Preservation Hall in the French Quarter. Take your chances waiting in line to get into one of the three nightly shows, or better yet, purchase “Big Shot” seats online in advance to guarantee a front row spot and avoid a wait. Frenchmen Street in The Marigny is the area to go for quality live music of all genres, minus the overdone debauchery of Bourbon Street. You can wander in and out of the many music venues like Spotted Cat Music Club, Apple Barrel and Café Negril and join the impromptu dance parties that start when the young brass band members take over the intersection of Frenchmen and Chartres Streets. Thursday nights at Vaughan’s Lounge in the 9th Ward are legendary for live music. And Little Gem Saloon on Rampart Street (near the Superdome) serves dinner and live jazz performances several nights a week, including the regular Saturday line-up featuring trumpeter Kermit Ruffins, a frequent cameo star on HBO’s Tremé.
The list of good places to EAT in New Orleans is endless and you can expect to get many recommendations from the locals you encounter. Café Du Monde is a must for beignets and their chicory coffee. Elizabeth’s in Bywater and Café Fleur De Lis in the French Quarter are solid breakfast options. If you’ve got room for more fried dough in your belly, District Donuts, Sliders & Brew offers a decadent selection of gourmet donuts (in addition to savory sliders and snacks) and their original Magazine Street location is a great starting point for a shop and stroll in the Lower Garden District. Back by the Ace, Seaworthy is a cool spot for oysters, cocktails and late night snacks. Josephine Estelle is the main dining venue at the Ace and this gorgeous space is well worth popping into for their Southern-meets-Italian fare. Also in the Warehouse District, Pêche is a delicious, award-winning seafood-centric restaurant that is always busy—always a good sign. August and Luke are two favorites by celebrity chef John Besh. Family run Dooky Chase’s is an institution for Creole cuisine and Parkway Bakery sets the Po’ Boy standard—both count President Obama as past customers.
What else is there to EXPERIENCE in New Orleans when you’re not eating? Take a tour of one (or more) of the above ground cemeteries like St. Louis #1 adjacent to the Quarter and Lafayette Cemetery #1 in the Garden District. Truly live like a local and find a Second Line to join. Book one of Steamboat Natchez’s river cruises to get out on the Mississippi. Learn about voodoo and New Orleans’ most renowned voodoo queen, Marie Laveau. Take advantage of the bike-friendly topography and explore the neighborhoods on two wheels. And definitely don’t forget to have a mint julep on the verandah at Muriel’s on Jackson Square.
